The Art of Cookery,
An Imitation of
Horace's Art of Poetry.
With Some
LETTERS
TO
Dr.Lister and Others:
Occasion'd principally by the Title of
a book publishe'd by the Doctor, being the
Works of Apicius Caelius,
Concerning the Soups and Sauces of the
Antients.
With an Extract of the greatest Curiosities contain'd
in that Book.
To which is added,
Horace's Art of Poetry, in Latin.
By the Author of the Author of the Journey to LONDON.
Humbly inscrib'd to the Honorable BEEF
STEAK CLUB.
Note: The Beefsteak club was an 18th centry male dining club in London.
LONDON:
Printed for BERNARD LINTOTT at the Cross- Keys between the two Temple Gates in Fleet-street.
Note: Barnaby Bernard Lintot (1675–1736) was a publisher in London.
William King
Note: The following sections come from Horace's art of poetry, in Latin, the english translation, and then the english verson of The Art of Cookery, in that order, repeating for each 3 sections.
Humano capiti cervicem pictor equinam

iungere si velit, et varias inducere plumas

undique collatis membris, ut turpiter atrum

desinat in piscem mulier formosa superne,

spectatum admissi risum teneatis, amici?

credite, Pisones, isti tabulae fore librum,

persimilem, cuius, velut aegri somnia, vanae

fingentur species, ut nec pes nec caput uni

reddatur formae. “pictoribus atque poetis

quidlibet audendi semper fuit aequa potestas.”

scimus, et hanc veniam petimusque damusque vicissim;

sed non ut placidis coeant immitia, non ut

serpentes avibus geminentur, tigribus agni

If a painter chose to join a human head to the neck of a horse, and to spread feathers of many a hue over limbs picked up now here now there, so that what at the top is a lovely woman ends below in a black and ugly fish, could you, my friends, if favoured with a private view, refrain from laughing? Believe me, dear Pisos, quite like such pictures would be a book, whose idle fancies shall be shaped like a sick man’s dreams, so that neither head nor foot can be assigned to a single shape. “Painters and poets,” you say, “have always had an equal right in hazarding anything.” We know it: this licence we poets claim and in our turn we grant the like; but not so far that savage should mate with tame, or serpents couple with birds, lambs with tigers

INgeneious L– were a Picture drawn With Cynthia’s Face, but with a Neck like Brawn;

With Wings of Turkey and with Feet of Calf,

Tho’ drawn by Kneller, it would make you laugh!

Such is (good Sir) the Figure of a Feast,

By some rich Farmer’s Wife and Sister dreft.

Which, were it not for Plenty and for Steam,

Might be resembled to a sick Man’s Dream,

Where all Ideas hudling run so fast.

That Syllibubs come first, and Soups the last.

Not that but that Cooks and Poets still were free,

to ufe their Pow’r in nice Variety;

Hence Mac’rel seem delightful to the Eyes,

Tho’ dress’d with incoherent Gooseberries.

Crabs, Salmon, Lobsters are with Fennel spread,

who never touch’d that Herb till they were dead;

Yet no Man lands salt Pork with Orange Peel,

Or garnishes his Lamb with Spitchcockt Eel.

Inceptis gravibus plerumque et magna professis

purpureus, late qui splendeat, unus et alter

adsuitur pannus, cum lucus et ara Dianae

et properantis aquae per amoenos ambitus agros

aut flumen Rhenum aut pluvius9 describitur arcus.

sed nunc non erat his locus, et fortasse cupressum

scis simulare: quid hoc, si fractis enatat exspes

navibus, aere dato qui pingitur? amphora coepit

institui: currente rota cur urceus exit?

denique sit quod vis,1 simplex dumtaxat et unum.

Works with noble beginnings and grand promises often have one or two purple patches so stitched on as to glitter far and wide, when Diana’s grove and altar, and The winding stream a-speeding ’mid fair fields or the river Rhine, or the rainbow is being described.a For such things there is a place, but not just now. Perhaps, too, you can draw a cypress. But what of that, if you are paid to paint a sailor swimming from his wrecked vessel in despair?a That was a winejar, when the moulding began: why, as the wheel runs round, does it turn out a pitcher? In short, be the work what you will, let it at least be simple and uniform.

A Cook perhaps has mighty things profeft,

Then fent up but two Dishes nicely dreft,

What signisise Scotcht-Collops to a Feast?

Or you can make whip’d Cream! Pray what Relief

Will that be to a Saylor who wants Beef?

Who, lately, ship-wreckt, never can have Ease,

Till re-establish’d in his Pork and Pease.

When once begun let Industry ne’er cease

Till it has render’d all things of one Piece :

At your Desert bright Pewter comes too late,

When your first Course was all ferv’d up in Plate.

Maxima pars vatum, pater et iuvenes patre digni,
decipimur specie recti. brevis esse laboro,
obscurus fio; sectantem levia nervi
deficiunt animique; professus grandia turget;
serpit humi tutus nimium timidusque procellae:
qui variare cupit rem prodigialiter unam,
delphinum silvis appingit, fluctibus aprum.
in vitium ducit culpae fuga, si caret arte.
Aemilium circa ludum faber imus et unguis
exprimet et mollis imitabitur aere capillos,
infelix operis summa, quia ponere totum
nesciet. hunc ego me, si quid componere curem,
non magis esse velim, quam naso vivere pravo,
spectandum nigris oculis nigroque capillo.

Most of us poets, O father and ye sons worthy of the father, deceive ourselves by the semblance of truth. Striving to be brief, I become obscure. Aiming at smoothness, I fail in force and fire. One promising grandeur, is bombastic; another, over-cautious and fearful of the gale, creeps along the ground. The man who tries to vary a single subject in monstrous fashion, is like a painter adding a dolphin to the woods, a boar to the waves. Shunning a fault may lead to error, if there be lack of art. Near the Aemilian School, at the bottom of the row,b there is a craftsman who in bronze will mould nails and imitate waving locks, but is unhappy in the total result, because he cannot represent a whole figure. Now if I wanted to write something, I should no more wish to be like him, than to live with my nose turned askew, though admired for my black eyes and black hair

Most knowing Sir ! the greatest part of Cooks

Searching for Truth, are couzen’d by its Looks.

One wou’d have all things little, hence has try’d

Turkey Putlts fresh, from th’ Egg in Batter fry’d:

Others to shew the largest of their Soul,

Prepare you Muttons foul’d and Oxen whole.

To vary the fame things some think is Art.

By larding of Hogs-feet and Bacon Tart,

The Tast is now to that perfection brought,

That Care, when wanting Skill, creates the Fault.

In Covent-Gardon did a Taylor dwell,

Who might deserve a place in his own hell.

Give him a single Coat to make, he’d do’t;

A Veft, or Breeches singly, but the Brute

Cou’d ne’er contrive all three to make a Suit :

Rather than frame a Supper like such Cloaths,

I’d have fine Eyes and Teeth without my Nose.

Sumite materiam vestris, qui scribitis, aequam

viribus et versate diu, quid ferre recusent,

quid valeant umeri. cui lecta potenter erit res,

nec facundia deseret hunc nec lucidus ordo.

ordinis haec virtus erit et venus, aut ego fallor,

ut iam nunc dicat iam nunc debentia dici

pleraque differat et praesens in tempus omittat,

hoc amet, hoc spernat promissi carminis auctor.

In verbis etiam tenuis cautusque serendis

dixeris egregie, notum si callida verbum

reddiderit iunctura novum. si forte necesse est

indiciis monstrare recentibus abdita rerum,

fingere cinctutis non exaudita Cethegis

Take a subject, ye writers, equal to your strength; and ponder long what your shoulders refuse, and what they are able to bear. Whoever shall choose a theme within his range, neither speech will fail him, nor clearness of order. Of order, this, if I mistake not, will be the excellence and charm that the author of the long-promised poem shall say at the moment what at that moment should be said, reserving and omitting much for the present, loving this point and scorning that Moreover, with a nice taste and care in weaving words together, you will express yourself most happily, if a skilful setting makes a familiar word new. If haply one must betoken abstruse things by novel terms, you will have a chance to fashion words never heard of by the kiltedb Cethegi, and licence will be granted, if used with modesty

You that from pliant Paste wou'd Fabricks raife,

Expecting thence to gain immortal Praife,

Your Knuckles try and let your Sinews know

Their Power to knead, and give the Form to Dough,

Chufe your Materials right, your feas'ning fix,

And with your Fruit resplendent Sugar mix :

From thence of course the Figure will arise,

And Elegance adorn the Surface of your Pies.

continget. dabiturque licentia sumpta pudenter:

et nova fictaque nuper habebunt verba fidem, si

Graeco fonte cadent parce detorta. quid autem

Caecilio Plautoque dabit Romanus ademptum

Vergilio Varioque? ego cur, adquirere pauca

si possum, invideor, cum lingua Catonis et Enni

sermonem patrium ditaverit et nova rerum

nomina protulerit? licuit semperque licebit

signatum praesente nota producere nomen.

0ut silvae foliis pronos mutantur in annos,

prima cadunt; ita verborum vetus interit aetas,

et iuvenum ritu florent modo nata vigentque.

debemur morti nos nostraque: sive receptus

terra Neptunus classes Aquilonibus arcet,

regis opus, sterilisve palus diu aptaque remis

vicinas urbes alit et grave sentit aratrum,

seu cursum mutavit iniquum frugibus amnis

doctus iter melius: mortalia facta peribunt,

nedum sermonum stet honos et gratia vivax.

multa renascentur quae iam cecidere, cadentque

quae nunc sunt in honore vocabula, si volet usus,

quem penes arbitrium est et ius et norma loquendi.

while, words, though new and of recent make, will win acceptance, if they spring from a Greek fount and are drawn therefrom but sparingly.c Why indeed shall Romans grant this licence to Caecilius and Plautus, and refuse it to Virgil and Varius? And why should I be grudged the right of adding, if I can, my little fund, when the tongue of Cato and of Ennius has enriched our mother-speech and brought to light new terms for things? It has ever been, and ever will be, permitted to issue words stamped with the mint-mark of the day. As forests change their leaves with each year’s decline, and the earliest drop offd: so with words the old race dies, and, like the young of human kind, the new-born bloom and thrive. We are doomed to death—we and all things ours; whether Neptune, welcomed within the land, protects our fleets from northern gales—a truly royal work—or a marsh, long a waste where oars were plied, feeds neighbouring towns and feels the weight of the plough; or a river has changed the course which brought ruin to corn-fields and has learnt a better patha: all mortal things shall perish, much less shall the glory and glamour of speech endure and live. Many terms that have fallen out of use shall be born again, and those shall fall that are now in repute, if Usage so will it, in whose hands lies the judgement, the right and the rule of speech

Beauty from Order springs, the judgeing Eye

Will tell you if one single Plate's awry,

The Cook must still regard the present time,
T'omit what's just in Seafon is a Crome.

Your infant Pease to Sparrowgras prefer,

Which to the Supper you may best defer.
Be cautious how you change old Bills of Fare,

Such Alterations shou'd at least be rate;

Yet Credit to the Artist wil accrue,

Who in kwnown things still makes th' appearance new.

Fresh Dainties are by Britain's Traffick known,

And now by constant Ufe familiar grown;

What Lord of old wou'd bid his Cook prepare,

Mangoes, POtargo, Champignons, Cavare?

Or wou'd our thrum-cap'd Ancestors find fault

For want of Sugar-Tongs, or Spoons for Salt.

New things produce new words, and thus Monteth

Has by one Vessel sav'd his Name from Death.

The Seasons change us all, by Autumns's Frost

The shady Leaves of Trees and Fruit are lost.

But then the Spring breaks forth with fresh Supplies,

Aud from the teeming Earth new Buds arise.

So stubble Geefe at Michaelmas are seen

Upon the Spit next May produces green.

The fate of things lies always in the dar,

What Cavalier wou'd know St. Jame's Park ?

For Locket's stands where Garden's once did spring,

And Wild-Ducks quack where Grass-hoppers did sing.

A Princely Palace on that Space does rise,

Where Sidley's noble Muse found Mullberries.

Since Places alter thus, what constant Thought

Of filling various Dishes can be taught ?

For he pretends too much or is a Fool,

Who'd fix those things where Fashion is the Rule.

Res gestae regumque ducumque et tristia bella

quo scribi possent numero, monstravit Homerus.

versibus impariter iunctis querimonia primum,

post etiam inclusa est voti sententia compos;

quis tamen exiguos elegos emiserit auctor,

grammatici certant et adhuc sub iudice lis est.

Archilochum proprio rabies armavit iambo:

hunc socci cepere pedem grandesque coturni

alternis aptum sermonibus et popularis

vincentem strepitus et natum rebus agendis.

musa dedit fidibus divos puerosque deorum

et pugilem victorem et equum certamine primum

et iuvenum curas et libera vina referre.

descriptas servare vices operumque colores

cur ego si nequeo ignoroque poeta salutor?

cur nescire pudens prave quam discere malo?

versibus exponi tragicis res comica non volt;

indignatur item privatis ac prope socco

dignis carminibus narrari cena Thyestae.

singula quaeque locum teneant sortita decentem.

interdum tamen et vocem Comoedia tollit,

iratusque Chremes tumido delitigat ore;

et tragicus plerumque dolet sermone pedestri

Telephus et Peleus, cum pauper et exsul uterque

proicit ampullas et sesquipedalia verba,

si curat cor spectantis tetigisse querella.

In what measure the exploits of kings and captains and the sorrows of war may be written, Homer has shown.c Verses yoked unequally first embraced lamentation, later also the sentiment of granted prayerd: yet who first put forth humble elegiacs, scholars dispute, and the case is still before the court. Rage armed Archilochus with his own iambus: this foot comic sock and high buskins alike adopted, as suited to alternate speech, able to drown the clamours of the pit, and by nature fit for action.e To the lyre the Muse granted tales of gods and children of gods, of the victor in boxing, of the horse first in the race, of the loves of swains, and of freedom over winef If I fail to keep and do not understand these well-marked shifts and shades of poetic forms.

Why am I hailed as poet? Why through false shame do I prefer to be ignorant rather than to learn? A theme for Comedy refuses to be set forth in verses of Tragedy; likewise the feast of Thyestes scorns to be told in strains of daily life that well nigh befit the comic sock. Let each style keep the becoming place allotted it. Yet at times even Comedy raises her voice, and an angry Chremes storms in swelling tones; so, too, in Tragedy Telephus and Peleus often grieve in the language of prose, when, in poverty and exile, either hero throws aside his bombasta and Brobdingnagianb words, should he want his lament to touch the spectator’s heart.

King Hardincute midst Danes and Saxons stout,

Carous'd in nut-brown Ale, and din'd on Grout:

Which Dish its pristine Honor still retains,

And when each Prince is crown'd in Splendor reighs.
By Northern Custom, Duty was exprest

To Friends departed by their Fun'ral Feast.

Tho' I've consulted Hollingshead and Stow,

I find it very difficult to know

Who to refresh th' Attendants to a Grave,

Burnt-Claret first, or Namples-Bisket gave.
Trotter from Quince, and Apple first did frame

A pye which still retains his proper Name,

Tho' common grown, yet with white Sugar strow'd

And buttr'd right its Goodness is allow'd
As Wealth flow'd in, and Plenty sprang from

Peace,
Good Humor reign'd and Pleasures found encrese.

Twas usual then the Banquet to prolong,

By Musick's Charm, and some delightful Song:

Where ev'ry Youth in pleasing Accents strove,

To tell the Stratagems and Cares of Love.

How some successful were, how others crost:

Then to the sparkling Glass wou'd give his Toft:

Whose Bloom did most in hi Opinion shine,

To relish both the Musick and the Wine.

Why am I stil'd a Cook if I'm so loth

To marinate my Fish, or season Broth,

Or send up what I rost with pleasing Froth:

Note: These 3 lines are contained with a curly bracket in the margin

If I my Master's Gusto won't discern,

But thro' my bashful Folly scorn to learn?
When among Friends good Humor takes its Birth,

'Tis not a tedious Feast prolongs the Mirth;

But 'tis not reason therefore you fhou'd spare,

When as their future Burghss you prepare,

For a fat Corporation and their Mayor.

Note: These 3 lines are contained with a curly bracket in the margin

All things shou'd find their room in proper place,

And what adorns this Treat, wou'd that disgrace.

Sometimes the Vulgar will fo Mirth partake,

And have execssive Doings at their Wake:

Ev'n Taylors at their yearly Feasts look great,

And all their Cucumbers are turn'd to meat.

A prince who in a Forest firds astray,

And weary to some Cottage finds the way,

Talks of no Pyramids of Fowl or Bisks of Fish,

But hungryfups his Cream serv'd up in Earthen Dish:

Quenches his Tthrist with Ale in nut-brown Bowls,

And takes the hasty Rather from the Coals:


Pleas'd as King Henry with the Miller free,

Who thought himself as good a Man as He.
William King . Date: 2025-04-29